Kalkan has got it all. Overlooking what is arguably the most beautiful bay on Turkey's Mediterranean coast, what was once the Greek fishing village of Kalamaki can claim facilities unrivalled in most other neighbouring towns. Shopping and dining are world class and charming little beaches and swimming platforms an easy stroll or short water-taxi ride away. What's more, Kalkan is within easy striking distance of Turkey's longest beach, a stretch of golden sand measuring more than 20km long at Patara, and some of the most important ruins in the region, including those at Xanthos, the ancient capital of Lycia.

Kas is larger than Kalkan and is a local administrative centre. It has charming lanes, an early Roman amphitheatre, lots of old Ottoman Greek houses, shops and restaurants. Its harbour is filled with boats. Kas is known for its Friday market.

Kas is reached by a stunning 30-minute drive from Kalkan, passing by Kaputas beach (10 minutes).

The Greek island of Meis is only a 25-minute boat ride from Kas but a continent away in terms of style and temperament. The Meis Express leaves Kas about 10am, you need to hand in your passports at about 9:30am. (about 20 euros per person; tel +90 242 836-1725 or +90 532 331 9759).

The civilization of Ancient Lycia extended along the entire length of what is called the Teke Peninsula, the bump of land jutting out into the sea and stretching from Dalyan near Dalaman Airport in the west to Antalya in the east. Though the existence of the ancient Lycians goes back to the time of Homer (he gives them a mention in the Iliad), they made their true mark on history with the establishment of the Lycian League in 168 BC. It was a loose confederation of about two dozen city-states and is often cited as the first proto-democratic union in history. The capital Xanthos was besieged by forces under Brutus in 42 BC and the population committed mass suicide; Lycia was then absorbed into the Roman Empire and never again gained independence. What it did leave to posterity was some of the most stunning funerary monuments from ancient times. Cliff tombs, 'house' tombs, sepulchral tombs, the peninsula's mountains and valleys are littered with them and most are easily accessible on foot and by car.

Patara (15 minutes)

Most people go to Patara for its long, unspoiled beach of golden sand and dunes. But the archaeological ruins are among the best in the region, and among the most important. Patara was Ancient Lycia's principal port and was so important that Saint Paul tarried there during one of his missions (he says so in Acts 21:1,2). You can combine a day at the beach with a few hours' wandering around the sites - the intrepid can walk from a recently excavated ancient lighthouse (found at the end of the dirt road that runs west from the main ruins) through the dunes to a part of the beach where you will be completely alone. There's a beach concession, with drinks, snacks, lounges and umbrellas, at the main beach. There's a naturist - predominantly gay - beach to the right as you face the sea from this point.

For something off-the-beaten track, go for a swim at the other end of Patara, reached by following the road out of Kinik village towards Letoon - keep an eye out for signs marking Karadere Plaji (note the French influence!). There is a shaded concession here selling food and drinks but no beach chairs or umbrellas. It is very different in its setting to the national park end. You can walk about 30 minutes through a farm and along a trail to the Ottoman fortress of Pidnei.

Xanthos (15 minutes)

Xanthos was the capital of Ancient Lycia and its best ruins are now housed in rooms 15, 17 and 20 of the British Museum, having been removed to London by Charles Flowers in 1838. Aside from imagining ancient battles and mass suicides, Xanthos is worth a visit for its Byzantine fortress, early Christian church and, of course, Lycian, Greek and Roman ruins; one broken stele is the Lycian equivalent of the Rosetta stone. Xanthos is about 20km from Kalkan and signposted off the main Fethiye road. You can also enter from the village of Kinik.

Pinara (30 minutes; 15 minutes from Xanthos)

This is the most dramatically sited of the Lycian ruins. Stunning hilltop setting where chances are you'll have the entire site to yourself. After turning (left) off the main Fethiye road, just before the village of Minara is a small sign pointing up a steep dirt lane. It's tortuous for about 15 minutes - don't panic, small buses can make the journey and there are a few passing places. But don't park at the ticket office lot; drive instead up the road a bit further until you are see a small sign marking various sites including the acropolis.

The back road from Minara to Fethiye via the villages of Kabaagac, Gokben, Bozyer and Esenkoy is one of the most beautiful in region, passing through some very traditional villages.

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Other easy-to-visit ruins in the area include the sacred Lycian city of Letoon, ancient Lycia's religious centre, and Tlos, with its wonderfully preserved castle. Both are clearly signposted from roads and on maps.

Islamlar (20 minutes)

Traditional mountain village with trout restaurants and two traditional water-powered gristmills. Head left on the Bezirgan road toward Kalkan. At first junction continue straight on - not down to Kalkan. At next junction (there are some small shops here) bear right. There's a small sign pointing to Islamlar and other villages. Climb up and down and up and up the hill, ignoring the left turn to villages of Uzumlu etc. For the most "authentic" restaurant, park in the village next to a working mill and walk down the lane to Ciftlik Restoran. Check out the big tree next to the mill with a water tap sticking out of it. Try turning the spigot!

Roman aqueduct

The aqueduct used to carry water from the mountains to the port of Patara and a stretch is almost perfectly preserved. The site is virtually unknown and little visited except by intrepid local expats as part of walks through the area. To reach it, drive along the new road to Fethiye above Kalkan. When you reach the bottom of the hill, turn left onto a dirt lane and climb the hill for about 1.5km. The aqueduct is on the left. There are stunning views of the sea from a path skirting the hillside.

Saklikent (30 minutes)

A cooling gorge reached via a picturesque back road. Walk along the boardwalk into the gorge, have lunch right on the water, or go canoeing. Take the road towards Islamlar and turn left at the sign marking Uzumlu and other villages.

Fethiye (1 hour)

The closest thing to a city in this part of Turkey. Huge harbour with boat tours, great shopping for souvenirs in market area, big covered fish and fresh produce market, tombs and other ruins, and several large modern supermarkets where you can usually buy fresh milk. An interesting, and not often visited, site about 30 minutes from Fethiye is the abandoned Greek town of Kayaköy, the setting for Louis de Bernières' novel Birds without Wings. Ölüdeniz, the picture-perfect beach that graces many a travel poster, is also in the area but is a bit over-hyped and crowded.

Elmali (2 hours)

A traditional alpine town with well preserved wooden houses. The area is famous for growing apples and other fruit, so depending on the season you can be surrounded by groves of trees in flower or mounds of fruit on the side of the road waiting to be collected. A beautiful ride along the Bezirgan road through wooded mountains.

Kekova & Aperlai (1-1/2 hour)

A boat trip to the sunken city of Kekova, the village of Simena (also called Kale) and the remote ruins of Aperlai is one of our favourite day trips. The swimming in stunning Mediterranean waters is fabulous; Simena is a gem of a village with a castle perched atop and there are ruins everywhere, many tumbling into the water. Aperlai is a seldom visited ruin about 30 minutes walk from a remote restaurant that is only reached by boat. It's simply amazing with the sea and the hills. We recommend Mehmet and his boat Kumsal (tel 0532 685 2401), about 250 lira (per boat; holds 6-8 people), excluding lunch. You get the boat from the village of Ücagiz, about an hour's drive from Kas - the turn for the road leading to the village is signposted off the main Kas-Antalya (via Kinike) highway.

Patara ...

20km of golden sand with dunes, is about 15 minutes away. There are changing rooms, showers, food/drinks stand and beach chairs/umbrellas for rent. There can be a strong wind and surf. There is a nominal entry fee as you enter the Patara National Park. You can visit for free by going to the "other side", via Karadere (see Patara under Ancient Lycia).

Kaputas (10 minutes) ...

is a pebble beach in the direction of Kas. The water is crystal clear here. There are no facilities or shade. Free.

Kalkan public beach ...

is located on the left side of the harbour (as you face the water). The water can be cold because of underground rivers and springs. There are beach chairs and umbrellas available here.

Caretta Caretta pension

On the right side of the harbour (as you face the water) less than a kilometre down a dirt road are two small pensions that have made swimming pavilions on the rocks. Our favourite is Caretta Caretta (Latin for sea turtle) -- the owners are friendly, the food very good and the setting is absolutely stunning with the clearest water. It might not be suitable for small kids. There's a fee of about 3 lira for using the facilities. The other pension is called the Yali. It can also be recommended though doesn't have quite the same seclusion as Caretta.

Kalamar resort

At the end of the Kalamar road is a resort with shallow bathing area, boats for rent and a restaurant. Fee for using facilities.

beach clubs

From the harbour you can take free shuttle boats to resorts (i.e. bathing platforms) including the Mahal and Likya. Mahal is celebrated for its excellent food.

boat trips from Kalkan

Boats can be chartered at the Kalkan harbour for full- or half-day trips. All the boats charge the same price per person as it's a cooperative, so rates change depending on the size of the boat. We recommend Abdi and his boat Pina-X (tel 0532 677 3942), which costs about 250 lira per boat (holds 6-8 people), including lunch onboard the boat. Another favourite is Ali with his smaller both Zeus (tel 0533 447 0175) and delicious food. You can always just show up at the harbour and join available boats going out by paying the per-person rate. Boats generally leave about 10:30am. Our favourite boat ride is around Kekova (for details, see Kekova & Aperlai in Other Local Sites).

The Lycian region is a paradise for walkers and hikers. The more ambitious will want to tackle all or a healthy stretch of the 500km-long Lycian Way; mere mortals like us will opt for shorter segments. The Lycian Way is a well marked trail using old village paths that connect ancient sites, bringing walkers into contact with a traditional way of life that clings on despite the proximity to the coastal tourist areas. For full details of the Lycian Way, see the official website: www.lycianway.com

Those who don't like DIY walking may want to go for organised hikes and treks, which are available from local travel agencies and specialist tour companies. Ask us for details.

These walks will lead you to and by ancient aqueducts, meadows full of wildflowers, alpine woods watched over by hawks and eagles - and offer spectacular views of the sea.

Kalkan's market day is Thursday. Stalls are set up near the mosque below the petrol station. There is a wide selection of clothing, souvenirs and local fresh produce. Check out the yogurt and cheese stalls.

A larger market takes place in Kas on Friday while the sprawling Friday market in Kinik (near Xanthos) is probably the most local.

There's a small market in Yesilkoy (the village on the old road to Patara) on Wednesday and at Akbel (the village at the top of the winding hill just before descending into Kalkan) on Sunday.

• Kalkan has several grocery stores that will have most foodstuffs and supplies you'll need. Both are on the main road into the village. Two good ones on the right are Yali and Kartin.
• There is a good butcher selling chicken and lamb near the roundabout on left side.
• There is no fresh milk on sale in Kalkan or Kas. You need to travel to one of the large modern supermarkets in Fethiye, so it's best to buy a few bottles at the WH Smith or M&S in the airport (remember you must buy them on airside.)
• Turkish wine is overpriced for what you get. Stick to the basics as you generally don't benefit by paying a premium. A couple of reliable wine labels are Villa Doluca and Antik.

Birds without Wings  (Louis de Bernières)
Superb historical novel tracing the history of Turkey in the 20th century and set largely in the once multi-ethnic village of Karaköy near Fethiye.

The Lycian Way  (Freya Stark)
Indefatigable British traveller/explorer Stark (1893-1993) sets her sights on Lycia, its history and its ruins.

A Fez of the Heart  (Jeremy Seal)
Subtitled `Travels in Turkey in Search of a Hat', this is a light-hearted but never mocking search for the soul of a country often at cultural and spiritual odds with itself.

Snow  (Orhan Parmuk)
Set in Kars in eastern Turkey, this is the Turkish Nobel Prize laureate's most accessible and beautifully written novel.

The Bastard of Istanbul  (Elif Shafak)
Truth, denial and Turkey's recent history are under the microscope in this novel full of zany characters, family politics and even murder. You may never eat rice pudding again.

Lycia: the Land of Light  (Ilhan Aksit)
An excellent illustrated introduction to Lycian and its ruins; useful maps.

Lonely Planet Guide Turkey  (Steve Fallon et al)
Why not seek advice from the experts?

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